paradise

June 17th (part two) My nine hour bus ride to Dar was actually pretty uneventful. I was happy to be at the bus stand when the sun was still out. The Ubungu bus stand in Dar is probably the most dangerous bus stand in the country and when I am white and traveling with a heap of luggage it is good to have the sun at least on your side. I spoke to my taxi friend Steven and he sent a driver to come pick me up. He didn’t tell me he was sending someone else though so I was not too fond of the stranger that knew my name. When the bags were loaded I told him to drive me to the New Pentecostal Guest House. When I was recommended the guest house I didn’t ask its location…it was a bit of a ways outside of town. I thought the new driver, Mike, was driving me to my death trap. When we did reach the guest house safe and sound I was most pleased and grateful. The next morning I woke early to catch the ferry to Pemba. When I reached the ticket booth in Dar the man told me the boat was full. I laughed in his face. While in Tanzania I don’t think I have ever been told that the transportation is full. The transportation is NEVER full. He told me the computer locked him out from buying tickets and that I should try an agent. Since I didn’t want to be bothered with the hacklers outside I called a friend who knew an agent…he was also sold out. In the end, a nice woman, Viwe, overheard and told me to buy a ticket to Zanzibar. She informed me from Zanzibar it would be easy to catch a ferry to Pemba. I did as told and hoped for the best. Luckily, we ran into each other while departing the ferry in Zanzibar and she helped me out. She obviously had some influence and the men working on the boats gave me a ticket and didn’t make a commission off it! I was very impressed and happy that things were working out. Prior to my boat and bus ride I tried desperately to find a hotel or two during my stay in Pemba. I emailed and called around and couldn’t get much below $20 USD a night. This was quite expensive but I thought it would just be a few days and the island is supposed to be gorgeous so it will be worth it. When I got off the ferry one of the hotels called a man to greet me and send me in the right direction. Since he obviously worked hard to get my business I thought it would be a good start to the trip. I spent my first night in Wete and realized I was reversing my progress into civilization. I travelled to a little town where no white person is visible and no one spoke English, what was I thinking! On Thursday I rented a bicycle and did a little island tour up the northern end. The beaches are supposed to be gorgeous and I kind of wanted to check out the road conditions and the hotel availability while there. After a long three hour ride to the light house I thought I would reward myself and go swimming at the Verawimbi Beach. When I came to a gorgeous beach that looked too pristine to be anything but what my book said it was, I decided to strip down to my sports bra and change into swimming bottoms. No one was around (that I could see) and the transition wasn’t too difficult. I only stayed in the water for a short time worried about the theft of my camera. When I got out there was still no one in sight so I took the opportunity to dry in the sun. Five minutes later a Tanzania rode up on his bicycle and started to stare. I quickly threw on a shirt, a wrap, and rode out of there. Since I couldn’t do the long ride back without changing into pants, I went to the Swahili Divers Center to ask for a room to change into. I thought the Swahili Divers Center worked in conjunction with the Verani Guesthouse which I emailed for a room quote. The mix up just made me look stupid when informed management that I had contacted them but never got a response. I actually contacted the Verani Guesthouse which was a quarter of a mile further down the beach… I later (the following day) found out that the Swahili Divers Center is combined with the Kervan Saray Beach Hotel. In the end I was offered a room with all meals included for 25 USD a night, two dives with all equipment included for 90 USD, and best yet they could charge my credit card with all these expenses. Since my cash fund is running low and there is only one ATM (at the other end of the island) that was music to my ears. When I was researching places to stay I found Kervan Saray online but the prices were out of my price range. The owners were being quite generous and I still don’t understand how I got so lucky. I told them I would see them tomorrow and headed back to Wete. That night I treated myself to rice and beans instead of cooking on my little travel cooker and went to sleep very happy. Friday morning I headed via daladala (overcrowded minivan) to Swahili Divers. In the end a policeman offered me a good price on a ride and I left the daladala and continued the journey in his convertible. Two days later and I am still here at Kervan Saray but plan to leave tomorrow. I have gone on four dives (two yesterday and two today) and think I have found paradise. I am currently sitting on a dock listening to the sound of waves on the Indian Ocean, pretty awesome. The diving yesterday was a little stressful for me. I had not gone diving since my time in Australia and was a little rusty. It took me some time to remember all the techniques and I had a lot of trouble equalizing. Today was perfect. The dives were perfect, I wasn’t stressed out, I had a great partner, and I saw a gorgeous underwater life. In between each of the dives the boat anchores at a beach and we sit, drink tea, and eat pancakes while the staff gear us up for the next dive. After the eating and drinking today a few of us did some exploring. In between some of the rock walls we found a little beach with the rock walls cut through to a path. Following the path we came to some barbed wire which opened up to a wooden platform overlooking a lagoon. Of course we climbed in and explored. There were a few huge fish but I was waiting for the barracuda to come out and eat us. Luckily we found nothing dangerous just a beautiful cave and some cool scenery. Tomorrow I head out via airplane. There are no boats leaving tomorrow and the airplane would only cost me 20 USD more than the boat so I figure it is a pretty good option. Two more nights in Dar then I am headed back to the good ol’ USA! See ya soon! Love, Gretchen